dermalogica partnership school program segment 1 school program Segment 1 introduction course goals • To provide you with the highest level of technical and theoretical skills • To help you reach your professional goals in the exciting field of professional skin therapy • To support you throughout the term with an emphasis on excellence in education, using the most current educational resources in the skin care industry course outline • Product knowledge: prescription for home care and professional treatments • Learn the dermalogica skin treatment • Design prescription (customized) skin treatments • Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis procedure • Discuss and perform exfoliation techniques course outline • Learn and practice extraction techniques • Determine different types of serums and masque applications • How to build a clientele and prescriptive retailing • The dermalogica skin treatment The professional environment • The consultation • Face Mapping® skin analysis for prescriptive retail • The techniques and professional product application creating a dermalogica skin care environment • Visually – Sense of sight • Verbally – Spoken word • Kinesthetically – Through touch and feel room set up - preparation • • • • First Impressions Warm and inviting atmosphere Supplies and equipment in working order and on hand Cabinets clean and organized Freshly laundered bedding, towels, and client garments core elements of a skin care treatment • • • • • Consultation Cleanse eyes and lips Cleanse 2x Skin analysis Exfoliation • • • • • Extractions Massage Masque Tone Moisturize/sunscreen treatment “options” • Consultation • Cleanse eyes and lips • Cleanse x 2 steam/electric brushes • Skin analysis • Exfoliation steam/electric brushes • Desincrustation, galvanic • Vacuum suction with steam • • • • • • • • • • Extractions High frequency Massage - infra red Concentrate Masque Electric pulverisator High frequency Tone Concentrate Moisturize/sunscreen your professional products • • • • • Largest selection of professional products Used by professional skin therapists only Formula breakthroughs and maximum strength Full ingredient listing on packaging Specialty products and retail products in professional size the consultation card Discovering more about your client conducting the consultation • Complete the card 15 minutes before treatment time • Client signature is critical • The card is essential for the Face Mapping® procedure • Expectations and concerns are addressed the consultation card your health 1. Within the last year, have you been under a dermatologist or other physician’s care? 2. Within the last 9 months, have you undergone any surgery? If yes please specify ___________________________________ 3. Have you had any health problems in the past or present? If yes please specify ___________________________________ 4. List any medications, supplements, vitamins, diuretics, slimming tablets etc. that you take regularly ___________________________________ 5. Do you smoke? the consultation card your health 6. Do you exercise regularly? 7. Do you follow a restricted diet? 8. Do you wear contact lenses? 9. Do you have metal implants or pacemaker? 10.Rate your own level of stress on a scale of 1 to 4 (1 = low stress, 4 = high stress). _________________________________ the consultation card your skin 11. Do you have any special skin problems pertaining to your face or body? If yes, please specify __________________ 12. What skin care products are you currently using? face: soap cleanser toner moisturizer masque exfoliator eye products body: soap shower gel scrubs oil body moisturizer depilatory products self tanners the consultation card exfoliation history 13. Have you ever had microdermabrasion, chemical peels or any resurfacing treatments? 14. Do you use Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene or any other prescription skin products? 15. Are you currently using any products that contain the following ingredients: glycolic acid lactic acid any exfoliating scrub any hydroxy acid product vitamin A derivatives (i.e. retinol) the consultation card moisture hydration 16. How much plain water do you consume daily?_____________ 17. How many alcoholic beverages do you consume weekly? ___________________ 18. Do you ever experience these conditions on your skin? flakiness tightness obvious dryness 19. What SPF sunscreen do you use on your face? _____ body? _______ 20. Do you sunbathe or use tanning beds? yes no the consultation card capillary activity 21. Do you burn easily in moderate sunlight? 22. Do you blush easily when nervous? 23. Do you have a tendency to redness? 24. Do you suffer from sinus problems? oil secretion 25. Do you ever experience oily shine during the day? 26. Do you ever experience skin breakouts? the consultation card nerve activity 27. Do you drink more than 4 caffeinated beverages daily? (coffee, tea, soft drinks) 28. Do you ever experience a burning, itching sensation on your skin? 29. What is your pain threshold? low medium high 30. Have you ever experienced claustrophobia? 31. What type of massage pressure do you prefer light medium firm 32. Have your ever had a reaction to any the following? cosmetics medicine iodine pollen food animals hydroxy acids fragrance sunscreens other___________________ the consultation card female clients only 33. Are you taking oral contraception? 34. Are you pregnant or trying to become pregnant? 35. Are you lactating? male clients only 36. What is your current shaving system? 37. Do you experience irritation from shaving? 38. Do you experience ingrown hairs? the consultation card questions to discuss every visit 39. Are you currently having or due for your menstrual period? 40. Have your started any new medication since your last visit? 41. Have you had any recent dental x-rays? 42. What are your skin care goals? treatment/product record date treatment/products used in treatment/contraindications/notes samples given therapist skin analysis let’s look at… skin types vs. skin conditions contra-indications – Herpes Simplex – Impetigo – Infected Acne – Malignant melanoma – Allergic reaction – Cuts/abrasions – Open skin/bruises feedback • What are some of the characteristics of the professional treatment room? • How important is the consultation card to the success of the treatment? • Review pages 166 -170 “the book” understanding the skin treatment segment 2 school program Segment 1 preview-the skin treatment • Each step in the treatment is unique and needs to be mastered • We will start out with an overview of each step and continue to expand on them as we progress in the course room set up - preparation • • • • First Impressions Warm and inviting atmosphere Supplies and equipment in working order and on hand Cabinets clean and organized Freshly laundered bedding, towels, and client garments consultation • Get to know your client and their concerns about their skin • Ascertain medical background • Review client’s current home regimen • Prescribe effective skin care treatment and home care preparation • Eye and lip cleanse is performed with a mild cleanser for the delicate eye area • 3 small dampened cotton pads to apply and remove product • Rinse with damp sponges or warm steam towel cleanse • Cleanse twice – First, to remove makeup – Second, oils and surface debris • Clean water is used for each cleanse – You may choose to use a different cleanser once you have removed client’s makeup skin analysis • To confirm visual observation – you will use: • Face Mapping ® skin analysis technique • Magnifying Lamp or headset • Wood’s Lamp (if available) • Your touch; feel for congestion, hot spots, texture, oiliness, etc. exfoliation • To remove dead cells and increase cell turnover • You have options – condition of client’s skin determines your choice – Enzymes – all skin conditions – Abrasive scrub – normal/combination – Hydroxy acids – normal, oily, congested, sluggish or underactive skin conditions – Hydroxy acid/vitamin combination – dry, sun damaged, underactive skin conditions extractions • Performed on oily, congested, acne prone skin – Steam – to aid in deep cleansing – Desincrustation – to undo blockages, using galvanic current on – negative pole – Vacuum suction, galvanic and high frequency – to soften and prepare skin for extraction procedure massage • The massage technique used is based on client’s skin condition and needs – Standard massage using effleurage, petrissage, tapotement and friction – Dermalogica pressure point massage concentrates • Concentrates, complexes and serums contain ingredients to treat underlying skin conditions such as: – Oily/acne-algae, zinc – Dehydrated-glycolipids, hyaluronic acid – Aging skin/pigmentation- licorice, green tea, vitamin C – Sensitized skin-fumatory extract, lemon extract, coneflower • Applied under the masque and before moisturizer • Iontophoresis – on the + positive pole to aid in penetration • Pulverized into the skin – Dr. Lucas masque • To calm, hydrate, nourish and treat superficial dehydration – Setting – clay base – Non-setting – cream or gel – Specialty – paraffin wax, colloidal oatmeal tone • To rinse, condition, even out porosity of skin – Pressure spray – from your skin care machine – Spritz - manual – Dr. Lucas Pulverizer/Eco Spray – electric or portable emits fine spray to calm and hydrate client’s skin boosters • Boosters (retail) deliver daily treatment for client’s underlying skin conditions – Improve level of hydration – Protect barrier function – Slow down aging process – Improve fine lines and wrinkles – Sun protection moisturize/sunscreen • Moisturizers seal and protect the skin’s natural moisture and are chosen according to skin condition or skin type – Oil-free, oil based, oil controlling, humectant and anhydrous – Sunscreens contain chemical and/or physical ingredients to protect face and body review • How many times do we cleanse the client’s skin and for what purpose? • What concept or tools do we use to determine the type of ingredients we should use within the treatment? • What type of skin requires the use of a clay based setting masque? dermalogica live! professional use only segment 3 school program Segment 1 retail and professional • Cleansers: 32 ounces • PreCleanse: 16oz • Exfoliants/Toners ─Skin Prep Scrub, Daily Microfoliant: 6oz ─Multi-Active Toner : 16oz ─Antioxidant HydraMist and ─ Ultracalming™ Mist: 12oz • Masque ─Intensive Moisture Masque and MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque: 6oz • Moisturizers: 4oz or 6oz the importance of cleansing • The basis of skin perfection and the skin care treatment is thorough cleansing. The skin must be cleansed thoroughly without overstimulation or disruption of the natural acid mantle. • A successful cleansing routine must remove all the tinted make-up and debris from the skin’s surface, and gently remove dead cells. • Ingredients should be formulated to effectively cleanse and purify, be nonstripping, water-soluble, easy to rinse, leaving the skin smooth and refreshed. what happens when skin is cleansed? precleanse and the dermalogica double cleanse • A light weight plant based cleansing oil • Dissolves surface oils and debris, emulsifies with water, rinses away oil and water soluble grime • Effectively removes oils, sunscreens, pollutants and cosmetics; gentle enough to remove eye make-up • Great for oily and sensitized skin • Will not disrupt barrier lipids – Professional size: 16 oz. dermalogica cleansers • Dermal Clay Cleanser – Contains oil-absorbing ingredients for oily, congested skin conditions • Special Cleansing Gel – A foaming gel cleanser formulated for all skin conditions • Essential Cleansing Solution – A milky creamy solution formulated for dry to ultra dry skin conditions • Professional size: 32 oz. dermalogica cleansers Specialty cleansers • Ultra Calming™ Cleanser – Gentle cleansing gel-cream for extremely sensitive or sensitized skin conditions • Clearing Skin Wash – Foaming antibacterial wash for acneic skin conditions • Skin Resurfacing Cleanser – A dual-action cleanser that smoothes and retexturizes • Tri-Active Cleanse – a triple action concentrated cleanser for hyperpigmented and uneven skin tones *Professional size: 16 oz. • Soothing Eye Make-up Remover* – An oil and alcohol free gentle cleanser to remove makeup – all skin conditions *Professional size: 8 oz. tone • MultiActive Toner – An ultra light hydrating spritz for all skin conditions • Ultra Calming™ Mist – An ultra calming spray that desensitizes while easing redness and stinging. *Professional size: 16oz. • Antioxidant HydraMist – A refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties *Professional size: 12oz. what we’ll explore next • • • • • Exfoliation choices Extraction mediums Massage mediums Customization Masque therapy professional exfoliation Biologically active exfoliants to smooth, refine and prepare the skin for absorption exfoliation • • • • • The process of removing excess dead cells Allows for better penetration of treatment ingredients Encourages new cell growth An exfoliant is the medium used to smooth and even texture of the skin May be physical or chemical exfoliation • • • • • All skin conditions Acne Dehydration Aging Skin Pigmentation safety steps: contraindications and precautions 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Signed consultation is critical & always face map Lipid barrier must be intact – look for signs such as recent colds, caffeine, sensitivity, travel, low fat diets, exfoliation products at home. Check history of resurfacing treatments, chemical peels, etc Do not exfoliate highly sensitized, broken, injured, sunburned or recently waxed skin (24 hours) Prevent problems arising- can patch test Do not use on any clients who are taking Isotretinoin or have taken it in the past 6 months Do not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Epiduo or any other medically prescribed topical acne products, they need to discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeks Never leave a client unattended and always remove thoroughly! Always apply and prescribe a sunscreen! No sun exposure for a week dermalogica professional exfoliants 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Skin Prep Scrub Daily Microfoliant® Daily Resurfacer Skin Exfoliant System MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant 6. Exfoliant Accelerator 35 dermalogica exfoliants Professional and Retail • Skin Prep Scrub – A skin polishing scrub exfoliant for all skin conditions • Daily Microfoliant® – A rice based enzyme powder gently microfoliates skin surface, for all skin conditions ─ Professional size: 6 oz. *Except clients who have been using Retin A or Accutane. daily resurfacer Features Salicylic acid, sugar cane, hibiscus fruit extracts and bacillus ferment, Hyaluronic acid, rooibos tea and green tea Brightening complex: citrus unshiu peel and rice bran extract Benefits Gentle enough to use throughout the treatment to resurface, degrease and brighten the skin How to Use all skin conditions skin exfoliant system Features Enzymatic Base, Part A (powder base) Papain and bromelain enzymes Acidic Activator, Part B (liquid portion) Lactic and salicylic acid, sulfur Benefits Non abrasive self neutralizing, professional strength exfoliation, 3 multipurpose ways to use! How to Use breakout-prone or skin with excess oil production part of the MediBac Clearing® line multiVitamin power exfoliant Features Fruit, vegetable and flower oil base Retinol, lactic acid and 15% salicylic acid Oil-soluble form of vitamin C Bioactivity score = 25 Benefits Maximum strength exfoliant in a lipid base, delivered in a single dose and re-sealable capsule. Achieves visible results on the skin. How To Use dry, sun-damaged or prematurely-aging part of the AGE Smart® line exfoliant accelerator 35 Features Lactic acid (30% @ pH 3.2) Papaya juice (carica papaya) enzymes Olive leaf (olea europaea) extract Bacillus ferment Benefits Provides intense active exfoliation when used alone or use to customize other Dermalogica chemical exfoliants thick coarse sun damaged skin how to safely use Customize by mixing with other Dermalogica chemical exfoliants: – Daily Microfoliant® – Skin Exfoliant System + ¾ tsp. pumps EA35 - ½ tsp + 1 pump EA35 - 1 scoop Enzymatic Base Acidic Activator + 3 – MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant - 1 applicator MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant + 1 pump EA35 Or use Exfoliant Accelerator 35 alone caution! • Do not apply to highly sensitized, broken, injured, sun burned or recently waxed skin (24 hours) • Do not use on any clients who are taking Accutane or have taken it in the past 6 months • Do not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Tazorac or any other medically prescribed exfoliating products, they need to discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeks Questions? • Let’s recap: – Which skin conditions benefit from exfoliation? – Name 2 contraindications to professional exfoliation? – What are the steps for removing MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant? – Which Dermalogica exfoliants are retail and professional use? extraction mediums Pre and post-solutions to provide the most hygienic and effective manual extraction technique scaling fluid Features Natural herbal base of watercress, burdock, lemon, sage and ivy, saponaria officinalis, sodium salts Benefits Desincrustation solution that can be used in numerous ways to soften impacted sebum for easier hygienic extractions How to Use congested skin, prone to comedones extractions right vs. wrong!!! post extraction solution Features Salicylic Acid 0.5%, tea tree, centipeda cunninghamii, licorice, panthenol, alginated zinc triplex Benefits Decongests the follicle, reduces sebum production helps eliminates p. acnes While promoting healing and reducing inflammation How To Use congested skin, prone to comedones recap • What ingredients are used to prepare the skin for extractions? • Can you use the scaling fluid without galvanic current? If you use galvanic, what polarity would you use and what is it called? • What are the benefits of using the Post Extraction Solution after performing extractions? massage 1 Massage Cream 1 Oil Free Massage 3 Additives 3 Botanical Mixers to customize your treatment = 8 choices! massage cream Features Essential fatty acids, mallow, ivy, sambucus, cucumber and arnica Benefits Water-soluble, creamy formula melts, and liquefies on contact. Ideal for European massage How to Use normal to dry skin conditions additives Features Base of Hazelnut, Avocado, Wheatgerm Oil 3 types: 1. Revitalizing 2. Clearing 3. Soothing Benefits Blend of essential oils that detoxify, oxygenate and hydrate the skin can be used for Aromatherapy and lymph drainage all skin conditions massage techniques How To Use oil free massage Features Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol, caffeine, licorice, sarcosine, camphor Benefits A silky water-soluble, oil-free lavender flower massage medium that purifies & calms How To Use excess oil or breakouts Part of the MediBac Clearing® line hydroessential botanical mixers Features Floral water base with hydroessential blends 3 types: 1. Calming 2. Purifying 3. Replenishing Benefits Powerful water-soluble, aromatherapy blends, to enhance performance and customize almost all treatment products How To Use all skin conditions recap • How many choices do we have for massage? • List all of the Dermalogica massage mediums • Which Dermalogica massage medium is most suited for European massage techniques? • What do we mean by water soluble? • What are the properties of essential oils? complexes Benefits Concentrated highly active professional-use-only treatment products to treat underlying problems, correct skin concerns & intensify results 4 choices - part of the skin concern segments, MediBac Clearing®, AGE Smart®, ChromaWhite TRX® , UltraCalmingTM How to Use • • • • • Apply under treatment masques and moisturizers Mix into some key products Pulverize onto the skin Ionize with galvanic current on the positive polarity Use with pressure point massage mediBac clearing® complex Features A concentrated acne fighting professional serum to address the 4 factors of acne • Salicylic acid exfoliates and clears impaction plugs • Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol & caffeine regulate sebum • Comfrey & licorice soothe irritated skin • Nordihydroguaiaretic acid slows cell proliferation acneic and breakout prone • Zinc gluconate and caffeine inhibit bacteria AGE Smart® complex Features A concentrated power rich professional serum to help reverse signs of aging – Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide fight AGEs – Soy & White Tea inhibit (ROS, MMPs and AGEs) – Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis – Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract stimulates wound healing, collagen and oxygen utilization mature or prematurely-aging ChromaWhite TRx® complex Features A concentrated brightening professional serum to correct and control uneven pigmentation • Oligopeptide inhibits melanogenesis • Niacinamide inhibits transfer of melanosomes • Zinc glycinate inhibits melanogenesis • Ferula foetida root extract slows enzyme activity • Phytic acid chelates Cu++ • Palmaria palmata inhibits messenger protein that triggers melanogenesis • Lactobacillus enzymes stimulate natural exfoliation hyperpigmented skin UltraCalming™ complex Features Highly concentrated treatment serum to relieve sensitive, redness, itching and burning, it continues to work after the professional treatment • UltraCalming™ Complex reduces sensitivity, redness, and irritation • Saccharomyces lysate extract repairs inflamed tissues • Caffeine reduces redness • Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) aids skin repair • Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and sensitized, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans maintain reactive and proper hydration levels of skin professional masques 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Plankton Masque Base Colloidal Masque Base MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal Contour Masque MediBac Clearing® Masque System *Don’t forget! 6 oz. Intensive Moisture Masque masque therapy Plankton Masque Base Features Colloidal Masque Base Alginates from bladderwrack and marine plankton, bentonite and kaolin, grapefruit, zinc oxide, bisabolol, vitamin E Hyaluronic acid, mallow, ivy, cucumber, vitamins A and E, orange, sambucus, arnica and allantoin Benefits Cooling, hydrating, antiinflammatory multipurpose masque that be used on eyes and lips Balances sebum, purifying, detoxifying and deep cleansing clay formula removes dead skin cell debris and absorbs excess oil Features Benefits How To Use multivitamin power recovery® masque Features Beta glucan & algae extract, Essential fatty acids vitamins A,C,E and B5, Licorice, comfrey and burdock Benefits A powerful antioxidant masque to help skin recover from damage. Reduces inflammation, helps promote collagen and elastin production while promoting tissue repair How To Use mature or prematurely-aging clinical colloidal oatmeal Features Pharmaceutical grade Colloidal Oatmeal Benefits A super soothing, calming masque that helps boost the immune function of ultra sensitive skin. Relieves itching associated with eczema, helps to soothe skin rashes and irritation and can be used on eyes and lips. How To Use sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin contour masque Features Diatomaceous earth, calcium sulfate, grapefruit oil and algin Benefits Setting masque, cooling & calming, reduces edema, infuses underlying product, firming, diatomaceous earth How to Use sensitized, mature or prematurely-aging mediBac clearing® masque Features • Salicylic acid removes impaction plugs • Sulfur kills bacteria • Activated charcoal adsorbs excess oils and impurities • Clays & diatomaceous earth absorb excess sebum • Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol & caffeine regulate sebum • Licorice and panthenol soothe skin & aid in healing • Tea tree leaf oil and camphor are kill bacteria Benefits A two part medicated treatment masque that clears acneic, prone to bacteria, reduces excess sebum & calms skin breakout so let’s recap… • • • • • Exfoliation choices Extraction mediums Massage mediums Customization Masque therapy tone, treat and protect Tone: Spritz, Dr. Lucas Pulverizer, Eco Spray – – – – – Multi-Active Toner UltraCalmingTM Mist Antioxidant HydraMist Complexes Botanical Mixers Treat: Complexes, Boosters, introduce specialized retail products, eye care • MultiVitamin Power Firm Protect: • Professional size moisturizers, • Solar Defense Booster SPF30 questions? The dermalogica skin treatment segment 4 school program Segment 1 • the dermalogica skin treatment This treatment forms the foundation of Dermalogica’s selection of services • It is customized at every step by the skin care therapist based on the Face Mapping® skin analysis • You will be using the Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation card to check for any skin or medical conditions that might contraindicate a product selection • The Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription Sheet is used to prescribe a customized Dermalogica home care regimen for your client face ® mapping skin analysis and consultation Step 1 • Complete the card 15 minutes before treatment time • Client signature is critical – The card is essential for the Face Mapping® skin analysis procedure – Expectations and concerns are addressed cleanse eyes and lips Step 2 Prepare damp cotton pads to cleanse lip and eye area Soothing Eye Make-up Remover • Gentle cleansing, oil and alcohol free, conditions lashes PreCleanse • For waterproof and resistant makeup cleanse Step 3 The dermalogica double cleanse which begins with PreCleanse • a lightweight plant-based cleansing oil • Dissolves surface oils and debris then emulsifies when water is added to rinse away oil and water soluble grime cleanse Step 4 Perform the second cleanse with the appropriate Dermalogica cleanser for your client. – Ultra Calming™ Cleanser, Essential Cleansing Solution, Special Cleansing Gel, Dermal Clay Cleanser or Medibac Clearing® Skin Wash • These can also be customized with Dermalogica Botanical Mixers. – Calming Botanical Mixer, Purifying Botanical Mixer and Replenishing Botanical Mixer, depending on client’s skin condition cleanse Step 5 Remove all traces of cleanser with a warm steam towel, sponges or damp cotton pads, customizing your rinsing water with a Botanical Mixer. Step 6 A thorough skin analysis will aid you in customizing the treatment and link directly to the prescription • Apply eye pads and use your magnifying lamp • Don’t be afraid to question and share your findings with the client exfoliation Step 7 Select the correct Dermalogica Professional Exfoliant – Daily Microfoliant®, Skin Prep Scrub (can be mixed with cleanser) Skin Exfoliant System, MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant System or EA35 – You may also choose to add mechanical brush cleansing to this step. For extra deep cleansing use with Skin Prep Scrub (mixed with a cleanser) or Daily Microfoliant® extractions Step 8 Scaling Fluid – whip up a small amount to a light foam using a dry masque brush and apply to congested areas under steam for 10 minutes – Carefully perform extractions, remove product with damp cotton pads or sponges – Apply small amount of Post Extraction Solution to cotton and wipe over the extracted area (if performing high frequency, use before applying Post Extraction Solution) massage Step 9 Perform classic massage or Dermalogica pressure point massage using a massage medium customized for the client – Oil based system- Massage Cream, Soothing Additive, Clearing Additive or Revitalizing Additive – Serums – UltraCalming™ Complex, MediBac Clearing® Complex, and AGE smart® Complex massage Step 9 continued… • Oil free massage - a silky water soluble medium that purifies and calms – customize with • Hydroessential botanical mixers -powerful water-soluble, aromatherapy blends: calming, purifying and replenishing serum application Step 10 Serums, complexes or concentrates correct and treat underlying skin conditions ─ UltraCalming™ Serum Concentrate, MediBac Clearing® Complex, AGE smart® Complex and ChromaWhite TRx Complex Serums may be used in combination with galvanic (+) current, under a masque or moisturizer masque Step 11 Apply the appropriate Dermalogica masque ─Colloidal Base Masque, Intensive Moisture Masque, Plankton Masque Base, Multivitamin Power Recovery® Masque, MediBac Clearing® Masque System, Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal Masque, or Contour Masque ─Remove after 10-15 minutes (allow an extra 10 minutes for a setting masque); Contour or the Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal masque Note: While masque is on fill in Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription Sheet tone/concentrated boosters Step 12 Step 13 Spritz the client’s skin with: Choose from a professional serum or retail booster – Extra Firming Booster – Skin Hydrating Booster – Special Clearing Booster – Gentle Soothing ─Multi-Active Toner or UltraCalming™ Mist moisturize/eye care Step 14 Step 15 Apply suitable Dermalogica moisturizer Extra care is needed to protect the delicate area around the eye – – – – Active Moist Oil Control Lotion Skin Smoothing Cream Intensive Moisture Balance – Super Rich Repair – Sheer Tint Moisture SPF15 – Total Eye Care SPF15 – Intensive Eye Repair – Multivitamin Power Firm – Age Reversal Eye Complex daylight defense Step 16 Apply appropriate sun protection from Dermalogica’s Daylight Defense System: – – – – Solar Defense Booster spf30 Oil Free Matte Block spf20 Super Sensitive FaceBlock spf30 Extra Rich FaceBlock spf30 complete the face mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet and present to your client • Once client is dressed, meet them at the tester unit and present your prescription for a customized home care program – Hand the client a mirror as you talk through so they may look at their skin! – Follow through with every client regardless of whether they chose to purchase at that time – Give the client the original prescription and staple the copy to the consultation card for future reference – Book the follow-up appointment! demonstration and workshop • During your hands on practical you have handy guides to reference until you become confident in your Dermalogica techniques and product knowledge – The Skin Treatment “cheat sheet” – The Face Mapping® skin analysis “cheat sheet” – The Product “cheat sheet” Note: They can be found in the back of your Dermalogica training manual – “the book” live! retail segment 5 school program Segment 1 class content Overview: Concepts and the Grey Line • Face Mapping® skin analysis • Skin types and conditions • Cleansers • Exfoliants • Masques • Toners • Concentrated boosters • Targeted treatments Segmentation lines: • • • • • • • Daylight Defense system MediBac Clearing® AGE Smart® Dermalogica Shave ChromaWhite TRx® UltraCalmingTM Body therapy • Designed by The International Dermal Institute to use exclusively with Dermalogica products and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment • User-friendly skin analysis for correct product prescription • 14 different zones covering the face, neck and chest skin type vs. skin condition Genetically determined, measured by the oil in the skin or reactivity Caused by external factors, internal influence like hormones, diet, lifestyle, stress, etc. • • • • • • • • • • Normal/combination Alipoid Oily Acne Sensitive/Rosacea Dehydration Sensitized Aging/premature Pigmentation Congestion/breakouts let’s map! Map your findings: skin condition b = breakout activity c = comedones d = dilated capillaries dh = dehydration m = milia p = pigmentation fl = fine lines dl = deep lines s = sensitivity dermalogica cleansers All dermalogica cleansers are soap-free, completely water-soluble and acid balanced to purify thoroughly without stripping the skin's natural barrier lipids soothing eye make-up remover • gently cleansing, oil and S.D. alcohol free. Conditions lashes Benefits Oil free, will not sting eyes or leave oily residue – gentle and cooling and is ideal for contact lens wearers. Conditions and strengthens eye lashes all skin conditions pre-cleanser • PreCleanse - A light-weight plantbased cleansing oil • Dissolves surface oils and debris then emulsifies when water is added to rinse away oil and water-soluble grime • Gentle enough to remove eye makeup; effectively removes oils, sunscreens, pollutants and cosmetics • Will not disrupt barrier lipids all skin conditions (great for oily and sensitized skin) cleansing • • • • • Dermal Clay Cleanser Special Cleansing Gel Essential Cleansing Solution UltraCalming Cleanser The Sponge Cloth recap • Which Dermalogica cleanser contains purifying clays to help balance an oily skin type? • Which cleanser is used as the first step of the 2part Dermalogica Double Cleanse? • Essential Cleansing Solution contains moisturizing and stimulating ingredients, who should use this cleanser? • Name three key benefits of Dermalogica cleansers. • Fill in on your prescription sheet which cleanser you will use. exfoliants Dermalogica exfoliants prepare for optimum moisture absorption by aiding in cell renewal, smoothing and refining the skin’s surface dermalogica exfoliants • Gentle Cream Exfoliant – hydroxy acid exfoliant masque *all skin conditions • Skin Prep Scrub – a gently abrasive exfoliant *all skin conditions *except Retin A and Accutane users • Exfoliating Face Brush – ultra-gentle brush works with your Dermalogica Cleanser to gently exfoliate dulling surface debris and impurities dermalogica exfoliants Daily Microfoliant® • A daily microfoliator and skin brightener *all skin conditions Daily Resurfacer • Resurfaces and smoothes skin surface as it stimulates the exfoliation of cells *all skin conditions *Except users of Retin A and Accutane review of exfoliants • Which Dermalogica leave-on exfoliant stimulates cell turnover and smoothes the skin surface? • Which Dermalogica exfoliant contains corn cob meal? • Name two key ingredients in Daily ® Microfoliant. • Which one did you choose for your program? dermalogica masques Regular use of treatment masques greatly enhances a daily regimen by providing extra nourishment, refinement and revitalization to the skin, solving specific problems to leave the skin radiantly healthy masques • Skin Hydrating Masque – all skin conditions, dehydrated • Bitter Orange, Cucumber, Mallow and Arnica • Skin Refining Masque – oily and acne-prone skin conditions • Bentonite, Kaolin, Menthol and Zinc • Intensive Moisture Masque – oil dry skins • E.F.A.’s, Honey, Gingko Biloba, Safflower, Orange and Evening Primrose Oil multi-active toner – A soothing and refreshing, hydrating spritz – Contains lavender, sodium PCA, aloe vera and balm mint – Helps prepare skin for other Dermalogica products, helps even out porosity for optimal moisture absorption all skin conditions concentrated boosters Dermalogica's boosters are highly active concentrates to target specific skin concerns dermalogica boosters Gentle Soothing Booster Skin Hydrating Booster • An oil-free treatment of ultra soothing botanicals sensitized & irritated skin • Extra Firming Booster • Super concentrated firming fluid skin with fine, dry lines Skin Renewal Booster • An exfoliating complex of hydroxy acids all skin conditions – except users of Retin A and Accutane A super hydrating fluid that hydrates and smoothes dry, alipoid skin conditions targeted treatments Targeted treatments perform a variety of "problem solving" with their highly specialized formulations, completing every skin care regimen by targeting areas that require a little extra attention climate control • Protects skin against damage from reactive ozone, protects skin from dehydration • Medium weight formula that reduces inflammation and redness. • Anti-Ozonate Complex, Superoxide Dismutase, Shea Butter and Bisabolol. dry, sensitized & irritated skin, impaired barrier function and athletes(swimmers, snowboarders etc.) eye treatments Dermalogica eye treatments focus on moisturizing and replenishing critical oils around the eyes, helping to hydrate, restore firmness, retexturize, and protect against further environmental damage • total eye care spf15 Reduces fine lines and puffiness, hides dark circles, physical sunblock spf15 • intensive eye repair Ultra-rich nourishment, repairs and protects against free radicals moisturizer s Dermalogica's moisturizers contain powerful plant extracts, essential oils and antioxidant vitamins to hydrate, repair and protect the skin against the drying effects of environmental exposure, pollution and stress moisturizers Active Moist Oily Skin Smoothing Cream Normal/Dry Intensive Moisture Balance Dry Sheer Tint Moisture SPF15 Any Skin Condition Sheer Moisture SPF15 Any Skin Condition Sheer tint Redness Relief SPF15 Visible Redness daylight defense system daylight defense • Oil Free Matte Block SPF20 • provides matte finish while protecting • Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30 • soothe and protect • ExtraRich FaceBlock SPF30 • nourish and protect • Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock SPF25 • tinted super emollient • Solar Defense Booster SPF30 • ultimate customization • MultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF20 • treat and protect the body • WaterBlock Solar Spray SPF30 • water resistant protection, kids and athletes • Solar Defense Wipes SPF15 • portable, versatile towelettes • Solar Shield SPF15 • waterproof protection in a stick, lips, ears and nose • After Sun Repair • treatment balm to repair sunburned skin review • Should everyone use a moisturizer? • What is the purpose? • Which moisturizer is oil-free and recommended for men, teenagers and as a sports moisturizer? • Which Dermalogica gray line moisturizer contains a sun screen? Fill out your home care program • Morning – – – – – – Cleanser Toner Booster Moisturizer Eye treatment Sun Protection • Evening – – – – – – Cleanser Exfoliant Masque Toner Moisturizer (other) mediBac clearing TM designed to be layered onto the skin for maximum results…. 24 hours a day a complete professional & retail system mediBac clearing® retail products mediBac clearing® designed to be layered onto the skin for maximum results…. 24 hours a day a complete professional & retail system mediBac ® clearing • Clearing Skin Wash Foaming cleanser to clear away excess oil without stripping the skin Salicylic Acid, Licorice, Calendula, TeaTree, Golden Seal, Camphor and Menthol • Skin Purifying Wipes Hygienic, quick cleansing wipes that purify and remove excess oil Balm Mint, Coneflower, Camphor, Witch Hazel and Salicylic Acid mediBac ® clearing • Sebum Clearing Masque A cooling, refining masque that purifies and helps prevent breakouts Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria and Sarcosine • Clearing Mattifier An anhydrous treatment that absorbs oil, clears breakouts and maintains an all-day matte finish 2% Salicylic Acid, Cinnamon Bark Extract, Enantia Bark, Retinyl Palmitate and Grape Seed Extract. mediBac ® clearing • Oil Control Lotion Feather-light lotion to absorb oil and help combat shine to maintain an all-day matte finish Microsponges, Hyssopus, Zinc Gluconate, Niacinamide, Caffeine and Salicylic Acid • Concealing Spot Treatment An intense spot treatment that works to conceal, treat and clear breakouts Sulfur, Zinc Oxide and carob seed extract mediBac clearing® • Overnight Clearing Gel An overnight treatment gel that clears skin, calms inflammation and prevents future breakout 2% Salicylic Acid, Tea Tree, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid and Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid • Special Clearing Booster A topical treatment for breakouts that helps to heal the lesion and kill bacteria 5% Benzoyl Peroxide, Ivy, Sage, Watercress, Calendula and Cornflower AGE Smart® a state-of-the-art system of innovative products designed to help prevent and correct physiological and physical manifestations of aging skin AGE Smart® • Skin Resurfacing Cleanser • dual action 2-in-1 cleanses & exfoliates • Antioxidant HydraMist • hydrates, antioxidant protection and flash firming action • MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque • powerful recovery for stressed skin while enhancing barrier function • MultiVitamin Power Concentrate • single dose capsule delivers vitamins to repair and restore • MAP-15 Regenerator® • a unique powder to emulsion delivers potent vitamin C • MultiVitamin Power Firm • eye treatment to combat the signs of aging and protective silicones • Age Reversal Eye Complex • reverse and repair multiple signs of aging with this breakthrough highly effective product AGE • • • Super Rich Repair • moisturize chronically dry, prematurely aging skin Power RichTM • 3-in-1 to repair, renew and restore Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF30 • a lightweight daytime moisturizer fights • AGES (Advanced Glycation End productS) • ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) • Regulates MMPs (Matrix Metalloproteinases) ® Smart • • • Renewal Lip Complex • a lip treatment that repairs, protects, moisturizes & smoothes MultiVitamin Thermafoliant® • this powerful skin polisher uses thermal technology to refine skin texture while targeting the internal causes that lead to skin aging MultiVitamin Hand and Nail Treatment • a dynamic hand cream with a multipurpose ingredient base dermalogica SHAVE shave The dermalogica shave 3-step system offers a complete regimen to deliver the closest shave possible and your healthiest skin ever dermalogica shave • Clean Bar • the performance of a cleanser in a bar form • Daily Clean Scrub • dual-action exfoliating cleanser • Pre-Shave Guard • softens the beard without high-alkaline ingredients • Soothing Shave Cream • a super-close shave that prevents aggravation • Invigorating Shave Gel • shaving gel that soothes, cools and softens • Close Shave Oil • create an instant cushion between skin and razor • Post-Shave Balm • reduce discomfort & redness brought on by shaving • Daily Defense Block SPF15 • light-weight lotion conditions, defends against UV rays ChromaWhite TRx® When used morning and night, ChromaWhite TRx® delivers synergistic, around-the-clock treatment and prevention of hyperpigmentation ChromaWhite TRx • Tri-Active Cleanse • exfoliates & preps skin for absorption of lightening ingredients • Powerfoliant2® • powerful liquid exfoliation treatment revealing a lighter skin tone (2 x weekly) • Extreme C • concentrated powder with enhanced brighteners ® • C-12 Concentrate • brightening serum that targets pigmentation • Pure Light SPF30 • daily SPF protection to defend against further development of pigmentation • Pure Night • treatment moisturizer conditions, while targeting pigmentation T UltraCalming M Multi-beneficiary and packed with key actives that fight inflammation-induced redness and irritation to restore the skin’s natural lipid composition for an overall soothing and restorative treatment UltraCalmingTM • UltraCalmingTM Cleanser • • • UltraCalmingTM Serum Concentrate • a super concentrated serum • gentle sulfate free gel cream, antidote for skin sensitivity can be wiped away for skin • Barrier Repair that cannot tolerate water • a unique anhydrous (waterless) UltraCalmingTM Mist moisturizer to reinforce the protective barrier • a soothing mist quickly • Redness Relief SPF20 relieves sensitivity, used • a 3-in-1 spf moisturizer that when needed neutralizes redness, defends UltraCalmingTM Relief Masque against inflammation and • for enraged skin, flare ups, protects used in spot areas if necessary treatment foundation The last step in skin care, the first step in make-up. Oil-free, water-based formulas with natural Iron Oxides provide flawless coverage while moisturizing and protecting the skin kits…the essential starter it doesn’t stop at the face •Body MappingSM •Body Therapy •Daily Groomers questions? • Why is it important to prescribe home care products to our clients? • Do Dermalogica cleansers contain soap? • What do boosters do? • What are the differences between the grey line and the segmented line? Homework! face mapping skin analysis ® segment 6 school program Segment 1 what is face mapping® skin analysis? reading the skin and effectively communicating to the client what you discover and prescribing the correct regimen • Elevates the therapist • Educates the client • Links directly to the prescription • Cements trust & commitment 5 steps to great skin • Step 1 Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis consultation card • Step 2 Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis • Step 3 Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet • Step 4 Present your findings • Step 5 Close the sale let’s review – the consultation card • • • • • Your health Your skin Exfoliation history Moisture hydration Capillary activity • Oil secretion • Nerve activity • Female clients • Male clients • Questions to discuss every visit face mapping® skin analysis Why it works • Clients are time starved but want more results • Clients are information hungry and savvier than ever • Clients are confused by a crowded skin care landscape • Clients will invest in a regimen that works How to map • Communicate the concept • Put on the headset • Introduce each zone to the client • Work methodically, touch and feel the skin • Explain what you see and feel, educate the client and ask questions about their skin what to look for? Skin type • Normal/combination • Oil dry • Oily • Acne • Sensitive/Rosacea Skin condition • Dehydration • Sensitized • Aging/premature aging • Pigmentation • Congestion/breakouts face ® mapping skin analysis zones face ® mapping skin analysis zones Map your findings: b = Breakout activity c = Comedone d = Dilated capillaries dh = Dehydration m = Milia p = Pigmentation fl = Fine lines dl = Deep lines s = Sensitivity/redness tools to work with Analyze the skin with: • Your eyes through the magnifying lamp • Your woods lamp/skin scanner • Your touch, feel for congestion, hot spots, texture, oiliness and dryness The Face Mapping® Skin Analysis Prescription Sheet the zones • Zones 1 & 3 – Forehead: possible breakouts, dehydration • Zone 2 – Nose: congestion, redness, flakiness • Zones 4 & 10 Ears: comedones, sensitized skin the zones • Zones 5 & 9 – Cheeks: sensitized skin and hot spots, milia • Zones 6 & 8 – Eye area: milia, fine lines, dark circles the zones • Zone 7 – Upper lip area: congestion and comedones • Zones 11 & 13 – Jaw line area: breakouts, under surface congestion the zones • Zone 12 – Chin: breakouts, microcomedones • Zone 14 – Neck: breakouts, pigmentation let’s play! treatment protocols segment 7 school program Segment 1 “owning” the treatment In order to become great at what we do, we must ask ourselves: • How well am I doing? • Do I feel confident as I work? • What are my strengths during the treatment? • Am I following the protocol for the core treatment? good treatment or GREAT!!! • Details, details, details… – – – – – – Greeting Face Mapping® Consultation Card Amenities (before, during and after the service) Addressing client concerns Prescribing home regimen Follow through with re-booking and recommendations learning tools • The dermalogica core treatment – Laminated cheat sheet – Laminated product cheat sheet – Laminated face mapping® skin analysis cheat sheet treatments for everyone let’s look at our choices • AGE smart® Treatment– clients with signs of aging, dry or sun damage • MediBac Clearing® Treatment – acne management targeting adult breakouts and prevention • UltraCalming™ Skin Treatment – sensitive and environmentally sensitized skin conditions many choices • ChromaWhite TRx® – balancing areas of uneven pigmentation • Men’s Skin Care Treatment- specific concerns of the male client • 20 - Minute Express Treatment (MicroZoneSM Treatments) skin bar® • Free Face Mapping® skin analysis and clients’ get to “play” with the product! retail support segment 8 school program Segment 1 completing the Face Mapping® skin analysis & presenting to your client the retail experience made easy! setting goals for prescription retailing • What is the role of the skin care therapist? • What does the client expect? Results! • Benefits for the therapist? Steady clients and referrals • Benefits for the client? A healthier skin, good home maintenance regime and a feeling of money and time well spent! Key steps…what do we say? feature: what it is Special Cleansing Gel a gentle foaming cleanser which will cleanse and refresh your skin without stripping it like soap can advantage: the effect of the feature on the skin or body benefit: what it does a. i. d. a. • Attention: Why are they there? • Interest: Is the product something they really need? • Desire: Be passionate about your product • Action: Convince the client probe and prescribe... • Consultation, further questions about life style and contributing factors • Make suggestions, listen to client, what is the most urgent need • Be prepared, be knowledgeable about future treatments and products for home care close the sale! • Be happy, smile • Present purchase in professionally wrapped packaging along with instructions on how and when to use • Invite them back for future treatments, set appointment time • Send thank you note! review • What do we mean by features and benefits of a product? • Is it important to know your product line? • What are the benefits to the client?